“Words are, of course, the most powerful drug used by mankind.” ― Rudyard Kipling
Gardening articles and interests of Wade
It was also extremely humid and stormy. Of the 48 days I was there, it stormed on 44 of them, sometimes several times in one day. With all that heat and humidity, of course you get some rather splendid tropical vegetation. Here are some of the photos I took.
© Wade Kingston
When I was a very small child, and could not yet read, I would sit with my Grandma Hammons. Together we leafed through her huge old family Bible. I was particularly fascinated with Grandma’s Bible because, in addition to all the wonderful stories, it was filled with full-color illustrations. Some of the illustrations depicting famous Bible events were painted by old masters. One in particular, “The Garden of Eden” by Jan Brueghel and Peter Paul Rubens, both fascinated and perplexed me. Continue reading “My Own Little Garden of Eden”
I always liked that song. And I’ve always enjoyed watching birds gather on a cold day and get their craws fulls of nutritious seeds. Please feed the birds in winter.
No self-respecting gardener worth his manure would neglect the birds in winter. After all, they chase down and rid you of all those leaf-eating bugs all summer long. Time to reward them, huh?
You don’t have to be a birdwatcher to enjoy feeding the birds. Heck, just provide the food and go about your way. Replenish it often. Let’s keep our flying friends happy and healthy.
Birds are remarkable creatures. In winter, when bugs aren’t available, those that need them switch to nuts and berries. But with energy-rich nuts, birds can get the nutrition they need to stave off these arctic vortex things. Continue reading “Feed the Birds in Winter”
Nutrients in different types of manures can vary wildly, depending of course on the animal itself and its diet, whether it is a caged animal or roams freely, and even the age of the animal and its overall health. The manure itself, if left for too long, will lose a large portion of its nutrients to insects or rainwater. On the other hand, aged manure stinks less and is less likely to “burn” your plants. So, six of one and a half-dozen of the other. To be perfectly safe and avoid the smell, I usually just mix it in with my compost and call it a day.
Here is what you need to know about the various types of manures:
Cattle: Cow manure actually has the lowest concentrations of nutrients, primarily because the cow’s diet consists mostly of grass. But low concentrations actually make it one of the safest manures to use in abundance. Another thing to consider is availability (a lot of it around here) and the ease with which you can simply gather up hardened piles of it. (Am I grossing you out?) But seriously, a quick trip around the pasture with a pickup and a hay-fork and you can gather quite a pile of cow manure.
Horse: Horse manure is a bit more powerful than cow manure, but boy does it contain the weed seeds. Prepare to weed yourself silly if you use it. I have a friend who gives me all the horse manure I want, but it’s a mixed blessing. He piles it up and all I have to do is shovel it into my truck, but months later, when I’m pulling weeds out of everything, I sometimes wish I had gone another route. Be warned.
Poultry: Very high in nitrogen, with a significant amount of potash and some phosphorus. Consider the source on this one, as caged birds are often given antibiotics. Free-range birds are the optimum, but keep in mind that very fresh chicken manure will burn your plants. Let this manure age a few weeks, or mix it in well with your compost before applying.
Sheep: I have not used sheep manure, but I know it is very similar to chicken manure. Same rules apply pertaining to caged or free-range.
Rabbit: Rabbit manure is actually a very prized manure and hard to come by. We just don’t have a lot of rabbit farmers in our area, and they tend to keep their manure. So there.
Bat guano: I would love to get my hands on some of this, but you have to buy it and it’s pricey. I’ve read such terrific things about it. Some say it’s like supercharged chicken manure. (OK, it sounds weird to get excited over manure. Guilty as charged.)
Got any tips you want to share about manure? I’m serious. Do you?
© Wade Kingston
It’s never too early to start thinking mulch. In fact, fall and winter are good times to begin saving those newspapers, shredding those leaves and grass clippings, continuing your composting, or setting aside a bale or two of straw. One less thing to do next spring, and your garden will thank you for it. The type of mulch you choose will depend on the plants, location, and your preference for how a particular mulch looks and behaves.
Here are ten types of mulch and their advantages and disadvantages:
Advantages: Very good for controlling weeds, plus it heats up the soil quickly in spring. It is good about retaining moisture and it’s relatively cheap.
Disadvantages: It doesn’t have a long life. You’ll be lucky to get more than one growing season out of it. It tends to repel water, which plants need. It can kill beneficial worms and insects. It’s ugly, and it does nothing to replenish the soil. On top of that, it’s environmentally unfriendly (made from petroleum).
Advantages: Helps with weeds and holds some moisture. Provides a home for healthy organisms, which in turn help prevent diseases. A good source of plant food for the entire growing season.
Disadvantages: It feeds the weeds also! It not only won’t kill weeds, but they thrive in it. Compost is also expensive if you don’t “grow your own.”
Advantages: Some weed control. Like plastic, it will also warm the soil and help retain moisture. Also, if you till it into your soil it will actually help feed your plantings.
Disadvantages: It can get very hot! Grass, as it decomposes, naturally creates heat and may be more than you need. Don’t put it up against the plant stems. It may also be full of weed seeds, so there’s that. Also, remember than any herbicides you spread on your lawn will be in your grass clippings, so if you’ve poisoned your lawn, don’t poison your garden with clippings.
Advantages: Cheap and good about keeping down weeds. It also helps retain moisture.
Disadvantages: May contain weed seeds and will not add nutrients to the soil. Also, do not add thick layers of hay around peppers or tomatoes until after the soil has warmed up. Hay can actually keep the soil too cool if piled thickly around plants in early spring.
Advantages: Whether whole or shredded, newspaper is excellent at controlling weeds. It’s generally free and available, and it helps moderate soil temperatures (treat it like hay and don’t apply too early). If you use more than one layer it will last all season, and you can dress it up with a top layer of bark or chips. (or if you don’t care about the appearance, just wet it down good so it doesn’t blow away).
Disadvantages: It won’t feed your plants. In fact, it may even leach nitrogen from the soil if you uses shredded newspaper and till it into the soil.
Advantages: It’s cheap and is very good at weed control. It will hold in water but let the air circulate as it warms the soil. You can dress it up with top mulch or just weigh it down with stones or bricks.
Disadvantages: Like black plastic, it is not earth-friendly. It’s made from petroleum and it may end up in the landfill. Provides absolutely no nutrients to the soil.
Advantages: It looks great, plus it lasts a long time. Holds moisture, moderates soil temperature (don’t apply too early).
Disadvantages: It can be expensive, and sometimes it has chemicals in it (you can smell them). It also won’t do much to fertilize your soil.
Advantages: Cheap, or even free, plus you are helping the earth by recycling. (burning your leaves just adds more carbon to the atmosphere). Moderates the soil temperature and does a good job at holding moisture. It improves the soil and earthworms love it. (earthworms are good)
Disadvantages: It doesn’t do the best job of controlling weeds.
Advantages: Good at controlling weeds and moderating the soil temperature (don’t apply too early). Holds moisture and will improve the soil if you till it in. It looks good and feels good (especially to bare feet).
Disadvantages: Just like hay, it may contain weed seeds. It also won’t fertilize your plants.
Advantages: It won’t go anywhere when the thunderstorms begin to blow. It keeps the soil moist and keeps weeds at bay.
Disadvantages: Nutrient poor and slow to decompose. Also, if it has a strong smell it likely contains a lot of acid. Don’t use it if it does, or use sparingly.
There you have it. Most gardens and flower beds benefit from a good mulch. I’ve used all of these, sometimes all at once. Any mulch is better than no mulch.
What successes have you had with mulch, or which ones do you prefer? Let me know.
© Wade Kingston
It’s getting near the time when houseplants–like children being called in for supper–must return indoors for the winter season. They’ve hung out on a porch or patio, soaking up the sun and renewing themselves all summer. Now it’s nearing the time for a well-deserved rest.
But there are a few things to keep in mind before bringing them back indoors. Continue reading “Bringing Houseplants Back Indoors”
Like it or not the fall planting season is upon us. A bit of preparation now will yield big results next year, so don’t be short-sighted and put off these recommended activities.
For fall color. Unfortunately, if you haven’t been nursing your annuals along they are likely past their glory. There are a few—notably chrysanthemums and pansies—that like cooler weather and reward the grower with abundant fall color. But the vast majority of summer annuals are pretty much played out by this time each year. (You may coax some additional blossoms from healthy plants by pruning them heavily now). Continue reading “Fall Gardening Advice”
Gardens, particularly an English “cottage garden” can get quite unruly unless the space has a definite border of brick or timber. I have used cross ties, landscaping timbers, limestone rock and old brick to contain and frame a garden. Fallen logs are a favorite as well.
And though I have used old railroad ties in the past, it is worth noting that “new” railroad timbers are infused with creosote, which can be toxic to both plants and people (if used indoors, like a greenhouse). If you can attain very old timbers, they have a weathered look and most of the creosote would have long leached out of them. If you want to be extra cautious, line your plant beds so that the timbers don’t come in direct contact with the soil.
Limestone rock contains this corner of the yardIf you have access to woodland areas, which are common in our part of the country, you may find an old fallen log that would fit your bill. Cedar works especially well since it takes many years for it to decompose. Be kind to your woodland plants and animals and don’t deplete your wooded area of all fallen trees. Plants, animals, and even insects depend on those logs. And really there is nothing quite more beautiful than an old rotted log with ferns and lichens growing all over it.
What do you use to shore up a border? Please return to My Garden Buddy and enter the conversation. Thanks.
© Wade Kingston
For as far back as I can remember I have associated stately hollyhocks with my childhood homes in Kentucky. I spent a lot of time with my grandmother, and hollyhocks were her lifelong favorite. Recently a cousin sent me an old black and white photo of grandma–circa 1940’s–and in the background of the photo were hollyhocks, standing regally against the weathered clapboard of her house.
Grandma grew hundreds of hollyhocks on the rocky hillside of “Pea Ridge.” A forest of them towered over me as a child. I marked their progression upwards with each weekly visit.
And though hollyhocks generally love full sun, grandma’s hollyhocks grew to gigantic proportions–or so it seemed to a small boy–in the partial shade of a giant elm. The secret was her soil—dark earth amended through the years by countless buckets of chicken manure. It also helped that the hollyhocks were “out back” of the kitchen door, where grandma tossed a dishpan of water after each use.
About the only thing that grandma loved more than her flowers were her hens. The chickens loved nothing more than to dig around the hollyhocks for grubs. When the soil was dusty hens would flop around under the leaves, making low croaking sounds. In a way, the hollyhocks fed the chickens and the chickens fed the hollyhocks.
Hollyhocks against my fenceGrandma has been gone for 30 years, but I cannot pass a clump of lofty hollyhocks without thinking of her, which happens often around here. Hollyhocks along a fence or up against a barn wall are almost a given in the Kentucky countryside. And though many gardeners no longer grow hollyhocks, considering them old-fashioned or not stylish, I smile inside whenever I see them.
Do you associate a particular flower or shrub with a loved one? Please return to My Garden Buddy and enter the conversation. Thanks.
© Wade Kingston
Nothing looks better on a fence, or a pergola, than a full blossoming vine. In this case I’m speaking of perennial vines, not the annuals like morning glory or moon flowers. Here in west Kentucky I have used a number of vigorous perennial vines that grow quite profusely in our climate. I began with a freebie–the wild wisteria.
Wisteria often gets a bad rap because it can be invasive. It’s true that one must keep wisteria “tamed” with pruning, otherwise it can get away from you. But the reward is a lovely cascade of pendulous violet blossoms each spring, which often arrive just as the butterflies and hummingbirds do. The sweet scent of wisteria is particularly delightful when planted overhead, say on a pergola or archway. I have also grown Japanese versions of wisteria in white as well as a deep purple.
When a fuller effect is needed, say on a large pergola, a mix of wisteria and hummingbird vine (trumpet vine) work well together. Both can be found for free just about anywhere in the country, and the hummingbird vine begins to bloom right after the wisteria finishes up. Again, pruning will be needed, and be sure to keep plantings away from electrical wires and poles. Not only is a pleasing shape attained from pruning, but the wisteria will actually have more and fuller blossoms when branches are pruned back.
Wisteria hanging from my pergolaAnother vine that can be quite lovely, and which blooms throughout the summer, is the Japanese variety of red honeysuckle. Very much like the wild varieties, these vines grow thickly and blossom profusely. They grow in almost any soil, prefer sunshine, and are practically maintenance free. Just prune them back if you feel they are getting larger than you want. Hummingbirds love them.
Another favorite climbing vine is the “Montana Rubens” variety of clematis. It grows quite thickly and the tiny white blooms arrive by the thousands long after other clematis have stopped blooming. It hits its peak in August and September in our area. The flowers have a nice scent, but the plant does have a tendency to attract Japanese beetles.
And last, but certainly not least, is perhaps my favorite blooming vine—clematis. Perhaps it’s because they grow so well in our alkaline soil, but clematis in shades of purple through pure white adorn fences, posts, and mailboxes throughout our area. My own secret with clematis is to mix limestone gravel in with the soil they are planted in. They love it.
What are your favorite “clinging vines”?
© Wade Kingston
Some Hummingbirds will wait patiently for their turn at the feeder, but there are some among the tiny wonders that live for the chase.
It’s not uncommon to have dozens of hummingbirds fighting over the feeder out in the country. Apparently it isn’t enough that I plant flowers full of nectar; the feeder is just too easy for them. And while a fair number of hummingbirds buzz the flower blossoms regularly, others spend their days swarming and dive-bombing the feeder.
They swarm just like in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2AwokyP4eQ
© Wade Kingston
Just some of my sunflowers, which love the rural countryside around Kuttawa, Kentucky.
“Painted” sunflowers
© Wade Kingston
The gorgeous Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa) is blooming again. Found along the highways–usually on rocky dry banks–this species of milkweed is native to eastern North America. As its name implies, butterflies flock to this orange beauty. But did you know you can grow this wildflower successfully in your own garden?
Here’s how:
First, please don’t do as I did in my ignorance many years ago. I went out and dug up a clump of Butterfly Weed and planted it in my garden. It was quite difficult.
For one thing, the Butterfly Weed sends its tap root straight down into the rocks. Digging the plant without breaking the tap root–which results in the death of the plant–is nearly impossible.
And second, digging and removing our native wildflowers is not a good thing. It destroys their habitat, and in many cases these wildflowers are already endangered.
No, the best way to grow these lovelies is to buy the seed, which is readily available. It might mean waiting a season for a stout bunch of flowers, but it will be worth it.
Butterfly weed makes excellent and long-lived bouquets, and hummingbirds and butterflies practically live on them. As you can see from the photo, bees love them too. They will grow in a clump about 3 feet tall, and are great accent plantings. Though primarily an eye-catching shade of vivid orange, every once in a rare while a yellow blossom will surprise you.
They are a long-lived perennial that will give you years of enjoyment. Hardy, pest-resistant, and take no fertilizing. They practically grow in dust. And, unlike many perennials, they blossom for up to a full month in summer.
© Wade Kingston
How many times has someone said to you, “I just can’t grow African Violets”? I’m here to tell you that you can, and you will love them.
I had heard about how hard it was to grow African Violets so often that for many years I wouldn’t even try to grow them. But I picked up a small beauty once at a yard sale, stuck it in a downstairs bathroom, and lo and behold, the thing became gigantic and bloomed non-stop year-round. The only thing I had done was to feed it using a water-soluble type of African Violet food.
I did a little research and it turns out that I had unknowingly placed the violet in the absolutely perfect environment for growing. For one thing the temperature in that half-bath stayed fairly even—between 65-80 degrees F. That’s ideal for violets.
Another thing was the amount of sunshine the plant received. The bathroom had a window that got early morning sun, and the window had some of that semi-transparent film on it, the type that lets in light but you can’t actually see through. Like glass blocks. And it turns out that violets love bright indirect light, which is what it was getting. Strong, direct sunshine can burn their leaves.
The third thing was humidity. They don’t like it too wet nor too dry, and the small amount of evaporation from the half bath did the trick.
So, though all this sounds like a lot of work, it’s really quite simple. Most indoor temperatures are regulated year round, so you don’t have to do anything different there. But window placement is paramount. Put your violet where it will receive indirect sunlight, preferably in the mornings. If you don’t have such a window, then place a sheer curtain between the strong sunlight and the violet. Or simply move it back out of the strong sunlight a bit.
DO feed and water your violet. I use the water-soluble type of African Violet food and simply follow the directions. A small bottle will last you years. As for water, violets like to stay moist, not dry and not wet. The specially made African Violet pots (which are pots within a pot) are ideal. The exterior pot holds the fertilized water, which seeps through the wall to the inner pot very gradually. The African Violet’s soil gets just enough water to keep it happy.
There’s a reason your grandma’s African Violets looked so good in her kitchen window. They were moist from all the dish-washing, and they likely sat behind grandma’s gauzy sheer curtains.
And when you think about it, it makes perfect sense. I always tell people who ask for plant advice to consider the plant’s native habitat, and to try to replicate that for the best results. Violets in the wild grow near trees, so they are protected from winds and harsh rains. They get even moisture and filtered sunlight.
Who knew?
© Wade Kingston
One of my earliest memories involves my grandmother’s “zillion” zinnias. She had rows of zinnias in her vegetable garden, large zinnias overflowing an old tire near the back door, and zinnias around the mailbox–placed there to welcome the rural mail carrier each day.
Who can resist these beauties? The colorful masses, so easy to grow, have long been a favorite of mine.
Sitting by the window on a dreary gray winter’s day, the seed catalog and its colorful photos of zinnias makes one yearn for spring. After ordering the various vegetables I always included at least one pack of zinnias in my order. I usually ordered one of the large packs of seeds, promising giant zinnia blooms.
Zinnias prefer full sun, but can take a bit of shade. They would rather be dry than wet and are prone to mildew. For that reason I water them as I do roses, from the bottom. Don’t let water stand on their leaves overnight if you can help it. Early morning watering is best. They benefit from regular feeding, but will bloom freely without it. Any good soil will do, as they will tolerate a wide range.
As with many flowering annuals, deadheading (removing the first bud or bloom) will cause the plant to branch out. Though it will naturally do this on its own, you can hurry the process along and get a fuller plant if you deadhead early. A bit of sacrifice early on will reward you with many more blooming branches.
Bouquets of these gorgeous zinnias last longer than many other plants. Change the water every couple of days and if your room isn’t too warm, you could get at least a week out of each bouquet, possibly longer.
Be sure to leave a few blooms to mature on your plant. Zinnias are prolific seed producers. Gather the dead heads in the fall and store them in a paper sack over the winter. Avoid plastic bags as they can retain moisture, which can rot the seeds. Enjoy!
© Wade Kingston
Time to spice up that old wall with a splash of summer-long color.
There is a tendency among gardeners who want to dress up their concrete walls to plant some creeping phlox and be done with it. And why not? Phlox is a perennial that will return to bloom year after year. And it will grow and spread, properly maintained. It’s actually quite lovely in early spring.
But that’s the problem with most perennials. They have a notoriously short blooming season. At most, under perfect weather conditions, you may get two to three weeks. More likely—at least it is around here—the temperature changes quickly and signals the plant to “get on with it,” meaning to finish flowering and move on the production of seeds. Which is, after all, the entire point of flowering.
There are alternative to this shortened season of blooms. Many annuals are available in the “trailing” or “hanging” varieties–everything from plain green ivy to some rather exotic geraniums.
My own favorite, and one that never fails to garner attention, is the lovely mass of trailing petunias known as “Purple Wave.” There are other and newer varieties out every year.
Plant them (I buy the small plants at a nursery, but seeds are available) early in spring after the frosts have passed. Water them weekly if need be, and don’t forget the fertilizer. I feed mine weekly with Peter’s Professional water soluble plant food, but others prefer Miracle Gro, etc.
Then stand back and watch these lovelies do their stuff. Within a few weeks they will begin to mass and trail down the side of your wall. And they will bloom that way until the frost takes them away.
© Wade Kingston
I have used portulaca all the traditional ways—concrete pots, flower beds, and as an under-planting for larger flowering plants like zinnias. Once I stuck a handful of plants into the hollowed-out portion of an old stump. That ended up looking particularly nice.
I recall as a youngster getting a broken piece of “rose moss” and sticking it into a plastic ice cream bucket. I piled some dirt around it and hung it from the clothes line. After a few days of watering it began to bloom and soon filled the bucket. It never ceased to amaze me that it lived and thrived and it didn’t even have roots when I stuck it in the pot. That’s how easy portulaca is to grow. It’s practically indestructible.
Rose moss is very drought tolerant, requires no special fertilizer, and is rarely affected by insects. The seed is tiny, so you might want to mix it with sand before sowing it. Or just do as I do and borrow a clump of live plants from a friend or neighbor. Stick them in the dirt and stand back.
Each rose moss bloom, which won’t open on a cloudy day, lasts just one day, but is replaced each day by more and more blooms until they form a veritable carpet of rainbow colors. Once you’ve grown a pot full of these daily bloomers you are set for life. They produce thousands of tiny seeds in their pods, and end up self-sowing themselves. They’ll come back up in the same pot every year. The plants are tiny and reddish-colored when they first emerge after the frosts are over.
Get a pot started. You’ll be greeted each sunny morning with a fresh burst of color.
© Wade Kingston